Carmel, a new Israeli restaurant backed by Hollywood heavyweights, is set to debut in Los Angeles. However, its grand opening coincides with a particularly sensitive time for Israeli-Palestinian relations, marked by recent protests and potential legal actions.
This article explores the challenges Carmel faces, the inspiration behind its cuisine, and the broader conversation it sparks about navigating cultural tensions in the food world.
A Baptism by Fire: Debuting During Political Turmoil
Opening a restaurant in Los Angeles is no easy feat. From permitting hurdles to competitive margins, success demands meticulous planning and a touch of luck. But for Carmel, the challenges extend beyond the typical.
Scheduled to open on the heels of a heated protest over the Gaza conflict at UCLA and amidst reports of potential International Criminal Court (ICC) warrants for Israeli leaders, Carmel faces a unique predicament.
The restaurant, named after Tel Aviv’s historic Carmel Market, aims to capture the vibrant, inclusive spirit of the city’s food scene. Yet, its debut coincides with a highly charged political atmosphere.
This timing raises questions about the impact of political tensions on the restaurant industry. Can a culinary experience transcend political divides?
Hospitality Veterans Aim for Culinary Diplomacy
Carmel is the brainchild of seasoned hospitality veterans known for their diverse ventures. They previously established Nua, a popular kosher restaurant in Beverly Hills, and Cleveland 19 in New York City, a Mediterranean haven frequented by celebrities.
This new project boasts an impressive investor list, including WME agent Brad Slater and Warner Music Group executive Aton Ben-Horin. It takes over the coveted Melrose Avenue spot formerly occupied by The Village Idiot.
The team behind Carmel hopes that by focusing on the deliciousness and cultural richness of Israeli cuisine, they can foster understanding and appreciation.
“We want to showcase the vibrancy and inclusivity of Tel Aviv’s food scene,” says operating partner Ronnie Benarie.
Benarie, with a background managing Israeli musical talents, emphasizes the diverse heritage of the team itself. “We come from various backgrounds – Libyan, Bulgarian, half-Italian, half-Syrian,” he explains. “This diversity is reflected in our menu, a modern interpretation of traditional dishes.”
A Menu Reflecting Tel Aviv’s Global Soul
Carmel’s menu promises to be a culinary tapestry reflecting Tel Aviv’s international spirit.
“Tel Aviv is a melting pot of cultures,” Benarie says. “Our chef perfectly embodies this – his heritage is half-Italian, half-Syrian. You’ll see this fusion on the plate.”
The restaurant offers a modern twist on classic dishes. For example, their Moroccan cigars, traditionally filled with lamb, are reimagined with wild mushrooms. They also feature a crudo showcasing “amba,” a tangy mango pickle condiment with Iraqi Jewish roots.
These unique offerings aim to create a culinary bridge, inviting diners to experience the rich tapestry of flavors that define Israeli cuisine.
A History of Tensions and a Hope for Harmony
Unfortunately, the L.A. dining scene hasn’t been immune to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. In 2021, a sushi restaurant in West L.A. faced anti-Semitic slurs and attacks from a car caravan. Similarly, the iconic Canter’s Deli was vandalized with pro-Palestinian graffiti in 2023.
Carmel’s opening amidst these tensions underscores the complexity of navigating cultural divides in the food industry.
The team behind Carmel hopes to foster dialogue and understanding through their food. By offering a taste of Israel’s diverse culinary landscape, they aim to create a welcoming space for people of all backgrounds.
Whether Carmel succeeds in its mission of “transcending politics” remains to be seen. However, its commitment to showcasing the richness and inclusivity of Israeli cuisine offers a refreshing perspective on a complex issue.
